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Posted by Joseph     0 Comments Sunday, February 15, 2015
Replacing Glass or Mica Diffuser Panels in an Arroyo Craftsman Light Fixture:
Replacing Glass or Mica Diffuser Panels in an Arroyo Craftsman Light Fixture:

The need to replace or change out glass or mica panels can range from a single panel replacement to multiple panel replacement. The reasons may arise from a broken panel or the desire to change out to an entirely different glass or mica for a different look or better light output.

Changing the glass or mica diffuser panels within an Arroyo Craftsman light fixture can be challenging depending upon which Arroyo Craftsman light fixture it is and whether it's an indoor or outdoor light fixture. Arroyo Craftsman will use some clear silicone adhesive to secure glass and mica panels, along with the metal tabs typically holding the panels in place. For indoor light fixtures, Arroyo Craftsman may use just a dab of the silicone in the corners. Whereas for outdoor light fixtures, they may use generous amounts of silicone. They may also use additional silicone to seal certain areas in the fixture. The bottom line is...the ease of your task of replacing the panels will depend greatly upon how much silicone was used by Arroyo Craftsman.

Replacement glass or mica panels for Arroyo Craftsman light fixtures are readily available and only available through an authorized Arroyo Craftsman dealer such as Oak Park Home & Hardware. Not all dealers will take the time to assist in ordering replacement panels. Here at Oak Park Home & Hardware, we will gladly assist and have for over 14 years. We will also replace the panels for you if you are local to us or would like to send the light fixture to us (we do charge for this service). If you are ordering new light fixtures, particularly for outdoors, you may want to order it with an additional glass panel just to have on hand in the event of an accident. We have done this at our customer's request.

The Task At Hand:

IMPORTANT: SWITCH OFF ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT BREAKER(S) BEFORE REMOVING ANY LIGHT FIXTURE!

1) Make sure that you have received the correct glass or mica panel size(s). IMPORTANT!....most all of the glasses have an outside side and an inside side. For example, the outside of the GW-Gold White Iridescent glass is the rainbow color side and the inside is glossier and a bit bumpy in texture. If you are replacing a broken panel, then simply compare your new panel to the existing ones.



2) Lay everything out in a clean environment. Use a towel or something soft to lay the fixture down onto so the finish will not become scratched.

You should have on hand the following:

- Clean sharp putty knife
- Single-sided razor blade
- Flat head screwdriver
- Soft cloth rag or paper towels
- Endust or stainless steel polish
- Clear 100% silicone adhesive
- Vacuum cleaner




3) All Arroyo Craftsman light fixtures will have small metal tabs which are bent over to hold the glass or mica in place. Some fixtures such as the Prairie series, in this pictorial example, also have metal strips that seat over the metal tabs before the metal tabs are bent over. If you have a broken glass panel, then it is advised to wear gloves when removing the glass. You may have to break the glass panel further in order to remove it. In this pictorial example, you can see that we are replacing the old mica with new glass (nothing was broken). We have bent the small metal tabs upward and removed the metal strips. You may need to use a flat head screwdriver to assist in bending the tabs.You can see that we have layed out the metal strips in the same pattern that they were removed. This may not be necessary but why risk it? After the metal strips are removed and small metal tabs bent outward, carefully remove the existing panels. Now this is where it go smoothly or not so smoothly. If the panels were installed with generous amounts of silicone, then it may be necessary to use your putty knife or single-sided razor blade FROM THE OUTSIDE along the edges of the fixture frame (and sometimes the overlay details). Carefully work it until the panel eventually becomes loose enough to pull it out. Be very careful to not scratch the finish on the outside of the fixture. It can compromise the finish causing it to corrode or be unsightly. After removing the panel(s), do your best to remove as much silicone as possible, particularly in the corners. Otherwise, the new glass or mica panel may not seat up against the edge of the fixture frame leaving a gap. This can take some time. Be patient.



4) Prepare the frame for the new panels. Vacuum it all out. With most finishes, you can wipe everything clean using a soft cloth rag and Endust or a Stainless Steel Polish. These have small amounts of silicone in them and will help clean and seal the finish. DO NOT USE ANY SOLVENTS OF ANY KIND. FOR RAW COPPER AND MISSION BROWN FINISHES: Only use a damp rag to wipe clean and it is advised to use clean white gloves as oils from your fingers can show up on these finishes and will not go away on these two finishes.



5) Install the new panels. Don't bend any tabs over at this time. Dry fit all panels into place first. You may need to slide some panels over a bit in order to get others in, etc. Make sure all panels are seated well before re-installing the metals strips and bending over tabs. Now.....if it is an outdoor fixture and exposed to the elements, you can spot some of the silicone adhesive in the corners of the panels or even along the edges before installing. Be very careful to only use small amounts and at the further most edge of the panels. Otherwise, the silicone will squeeze out onto the outside of the frame and glass or mica. If this happens, you can rub the excess silicone off only after it has completely dried (about 24 hrs). Make sure all tabs are bent over. They do not always need to be completely bent over. They just need to hold the panel in place. If you would like, you can add beads of silicone in the corners or along edges on the inside for additional securing. Just keep in mind that the more silicone that is applied, the more difficult it will be to repeat this task in the future :-) Take your time. Performing this task hastily can result in additional broken glass or mica panels.

6) Clean up. Your'e finished. Reinstall and Enjoy!

Let us know if we can order up any replacement panels for you. We'd be happy to assist!
Oak Park Home & Hardware
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Posted by Joseph     1 Comments Saturday, February 14, 2015
Framing Art Tiles Into A Tile Frame
View The YouTube Video On This

Art tiles can vary greatly in size from tile maker to tile maker. A 4 x 4 tile by Motawi Tileworks will be different from a 4 x 4 tile by another tile maker such as Lewellen Studio, Medicine Bluff Studio, or other. This is because they all use different processes to press their tiles, different material sources, varying tile thicknesses, and varying kiln and curing times. Tile thicknesses can also vary quite a bit from 1/4" up to 5/6".

Tile frames will also vary from maker to maker. Some tile frames are pre-made to accommodate a variety of tile maker's tiles. And some tile frame makers will craft their frames specific to a tile makers tile or tile size. Tile frame depths vary quite a bit, making the framing of a tile a little challenging.

Either way, there is typically a space between the tile to be framed and the tile frame edge (in the back of the frame). You do not want a tile to fit tightly into a wood tile frame. The following is how we frame tiles into our frames. This example involves framing three 4 x 8 Motawi tiles into a triple cavity frame by Dard Hunter Studios.



1) Position tiles into frame cavities. Make sure that the tiles are right side up in the frame. Many tiles have a self-hanger built into the tile and many tile frames have a keyhole slot hanger built into the frame at the top.

2) We cut strips of corrugated cardboard for using between the tiles edge(s) and the tile frame cavity. This will help center the tile, make it snug, and allows for expansion and contraction in the wood from humidity fluctuations.

3) Cut and position the strips of cardboard. The gap size between the tiles and frame cavity will vary so you may be able to use the cardboard strips as is, or you can reduce the cardboard thickness by pressing down on it with your finger and slide it through. It can take some finagling but work them into position. You may notice that the tile does not have a completely straight edge. You can force the cardboard strips down into position using a putty knife or metal ruler.




4) Tile frames typically come with "tile clips". Tile clips are a zig-zag configuration allowing you to secure a tile into place if the tile's backside protrudes up past the back of the tile frame or if the tile is below the back of the tile frame. Some tile clips have a 1/8" offset and some have as much as 3/8". Position the tile clips either along the top or sides of the tiles. You can pre-drill holes for the screws. Or quite often, tile frames come with self-tapping screws for the clips. Self-tapping screws will start their own hole as they are screwed in. If this s the first tile you are framing a tile, then we would recommend pre-drilling for the screws. It is best to use a drill when securing the clips. We install only 2 tile clips per tile. However, when we frame tiles to be shipped to our customers, we will install as many as 4 clips per tile depending upon the tile size. This is for optimum securing for shipping.

If you find that there is a bit of air space between the tile and clip, then you can add a small piece of the cardboard between the tile and clip. Remember, the back will not be in view after hanging.



That is it! Good luck with your tile framing!

Oak Park Home & Hardware offers many art tile designs as well as tile frame options.

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Posted by Joseph     0 Comments Monday, February 9, 2015
Introducing 3 New Craftsman Style Lighting Series by Arroyo Craftsman


Introducing 3 New Craftsman Style Lighting series' by Arroyo Craftsman: Greenwood, Finsbury, and Canterbury.

The Arroyo Craftsman Greenwood lighting series is a unique blend of the Craftsman style and the ranch architecture of the Southwest. The roof supports and angled overlays mimic the roof support gables used in Craftsman style homes. The Greenwood lighting series is a clean design that can work in a wide variety of architectural styles as well.

The Arroyo Craftsman Finsbury lighting series is designed for a variety of architectural styles from the Frank Lloyd Wright Prairie style to the clean contemporary Modernist style. The Arroyo Craftsman Finsbury lighting is a complete lighting series with everything from wall mount lighting, post mount lighting to hanging pendant lighting.

The Arroyo Craftsman Canterbury lighting series is perfect for the New England, Colonial or Tudor style home or building. The Arroyo Craftsman Canterbury lighting is a complete lighting series with everything from wall mount lighting, post mount lighting, hanging pendant lighting, and column or pier mount lights.

All Arroyo Craftsman Lighting is hand crafted and finished in Baldwin Park, CA (USA) and made from heavy gauge solid brass sheeting. To view all Arroyo Craftsman Lighting designs: https://www.oakparkhome-hardware.com/Light…/Arroyo_Craftsman
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Oak Park Home & Hardware specializes in lighting products in the spirit of Arts & Crafts, Mission, Prairie, Bungalow, English Tudor, Tudor Manor, and Spanish Revival styles.

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Oak Park Home & Hardware offer high quality lighting designs. We provide customized lighting solutions with manufacturers such as Arroyo Craftsman Lighting, Mica Lamp Company, 2nd Ave Lighting, and UltraLights Lighting.

We also offer quality lighting products with manufacturers such as Quoizel, James Mattson Coppercraft, and Lundberg Studios. Please check out our unique lighting designs in the style of Greene and Greene!

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