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Posted by Joseph     0 Comments Tuesday, March 17, 2015
Nichols Bros Stoneworks Cast Stone Installation & Care
Installation of your cast stone planter, urn, or vase

Nichols Bros Stoneworks’ cast stone urns and vases can be quite heavy. Upon delivery, make sure to have ample personnel available to unload and install them. Medium to larger vases will require a forklift vehicle for installation. Nichols Bros Stoneworks’ cast stone is very durable but damage can easily occur if not handled properly. Make sure to not mishandle during installation. Remember, they are a cast stone product and not a natural stone. Whence installed, they are typically safe from any possible damage but there are a few common sense measures that should be considered. For example, the cast stone products will not hold up to skateboard trauma and this sort of activity will void its warranty.


It is important that the container(s) be placed onto a flat level surface with some attention to where the excess water will flow. Matching saucers for many sizes of the urns and vases are available (please inquire). The cast stone urns and vases are supplied with small square cut rubber spacers (rubber feet) to elevate it and allow water to drain correctly (see figure 1).



If you are planning to install your vase on top of a column or wall pylon, that has not yet been constructed, then you have the option of incorporating a drainage pipe into the column or wall design using a PVC pipe drain (see figure 2).


Many of the Nichols Bros Stoneworks’ cast stone urn and vase designs, are made up of 2 to 3 sections. For example, many of the Frank Lloyd Wright urns and vases have a cap that is separate from the bowl or base. The base can also be separate from the bowl section. During assembly, the sections should be secured together using a standard mason’s waterproof mortar, epoxy, or landscape adhesive. The sections can be heavy so this may require more than one person. Some customers prefer not to use an adhesive when assembling the top or cap in the event that the vase may need to be moved in the future. Sometime its sheer weight is enough for securing into place.


Cleaning


Nichols Bros Stoneworks’ cast stone products are manufactured using a dry-cast stone material that ages and behaves much like cut sandstone. You will find that it will age or patina naturally over time. Due to its natural porosity, mosses, lichen and algae’s will find the material a great place to live and within just a few years, the container will look like they are quite old. If this is a look you find desirable or compatible with its environment, then you can accelerate the process by applying a wash of yogurt, beer, or moss to the outside surface of the stone and keeping the stone wet for some time. If you prefer to keep your container(s) looking as new as possible, then applying a clear stone waterproofing sealant to the exterior of the stone (when new) and periodically cleaning it with a bleach and water solution will prevent the growth of vegetation on its surface. The use of a “low-pressure” pressure washer can be used but with much care. Do not hold the pressure washer wand nose close to the surface. A very high-pressure washer of commercial grade is not advised. Acid based masonry cleaners should be tested in an inconspicuous location of the container before its full use. An acid based masonry cleaner, if used full strength, can dissolve the cast stone material. If concerned about cleaning the surface of your cast stone product, then first try using a mix of baking soda and water with a soft brush and rinse. This may work for you just fine.

Be aware! We have noticed that some of the new premium potting soil mixes, which contain high levels of fertilizer, have a tendency to stain the outside of the cast stone products in a brown stain.


Additional Care Considerations


Nichols Bros Stoneworks’ cast stone products are capable of withstanding freezes without damage provided some measures are taken. It is possible for water saturated root and soil balls to freeze, expand, and fracture the container from the inside out. For this reason care should be taken in geographic areas where temperatures become very cold to prevent this from occurring. Consider removing any root balls from the container during dormant winter months. Many of our customers who do not decorate the planters will create covers for them and decorate on top of the cover as a precaution.

In cases where the cast stone is subjected to wide extremes in temperature, you may notice the development of small hairline cracks in the stone. These cracks are normal and due to expansion and contraction within the walls of the container. Some of this can be minimized from placing the cast stone container(s) in areas where they are not in direct sunlight (and heat up) or near sprinklers that can cool them down rapidly when hot. Care should also be taken to not wet the cast stone container down with cold water when the cast stone is extremely hot as cracking can possibly occur from thermal shock.

To view all
Frank Lloyd Wright urns and vases.
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Posted by Joseph     0 Comments Monday, March 16, 2015
Planning and Executing a Fireplace or Backsplash Tile Installation


 

A tile installation project can be a challenging task for a first-timer or even a well-seasoned designer. The outcome of the finished installation will depend greatly on the depth of knowledge of the materials, the processes involved, and the many nuances inherent. This article strives to provide information and tips, as well as help prevent any possible shortfalls in the process of designing for and installing a tile installation. This information stems from my own personal experiences designing and installing for a wide variety of tile installations. In this article, we will assume that handmade tile shall be used for the project rather than standard machine-made tile found in most home improvement stores, which tend to present much less of a challenge.

 

Lets begin with the palate or planned space for tiling

 

A finished tile installation can be viewed as an overall art piece, which also serves a function. Tile installations can range widely from a fireplace surround and hearth, kitchen backsplash, bath tub/shower, foyer, wall, or for flooring. Some tile installations are for an exterior application as well. Because a fireplace surround and a kitchen backsplash are frequently a focal point, and handmade art tiles are often incorporated into the design, we will focus mostly on these.

 

Typically there is greater flexibility in new construction or renovation where demolition has occurred. Often, the tile design and layout can drive whatever else will be happening around it (so nice when that happens). It is important to remember that tiles have certain standards in sizing and this sizing can vary greatly from artist to artist or manufacturer to manufacturer. More often that not, a tile installation will take place within an existing space and have many constraints in terms of sizing, proportion, objects, and cost. These constraints may not be realized until the design layout is already in process or during the actual installation (if an accurate layout has not been done first). Other constraints may involve a new fireplace insert, existing gas valve, pot filler, or even a substrate issue. An existing palate space may also involve something that will be removed and then reinstalled over portions of the tile, after the tile has been installed. An example of this is an existing wood fireplace surround. A wood fireplace surround that cannot be removed will have greater constraints on your design, particularly if using tiles that cannot be cut. In this case, some custom tile sizes may be required in order to fill out the given space. Custom tile sizes will add cost or may not even be available with your selected tile maker.

 

It is important to mention here that a very accurate design layout should be done, based upon all of the dimensions of the palate and it’s constraints, as well as the exact dimensions of the desired or selected tiles. Grout line spacing should also be taken into consideration when laying out the design.

 

The tile

 

All tiles are not created equal!  Tile artists and tile manufacturers have differing sizes, use differing material, and their processes can differ greatly. Lets begin with the material; some tile is ceramic, some tile is porcelain, some tile is glass, and some tile may be metallic such as bronze tile. Some can be easily cut, and some tiles cannot be cut cleanly or cannot be cut at all. Some are more durable than others such as porcelain. And sadly, consistency can vary with a tile artist or tile manufacturer.

 

Standard tile sizes will vary. For example, a 6” by 6” tile may be as small as 5.75” by 5.75” with any one tile maker. Or it may be an actual 6” by 6” with another. Some tile makers will take into consideration some separation for grout lines. Some may have an actual 6” by 6” tile and smaller 3” tiles so there can be a grout line in between the 3” tiles but flush to the edge of the 6” tile. Some tiles such as decorative tiles and trim or border tiles are meant to butt up to each other and not have a grout line. Tile thicknesses will also vary. Some tiles can be as little as 3/16” thick and some can be as much as 5/8” thick or greater. So you see, there are standards that really are not standards at all. It is best to decide on the tiles you would like to use and obtain “their” actual tile sizes before starting any layout design.

 

Most tile makers have the capability of creating bull nosed edged tiles and over-glazed edged tiles. This may be required on more than one edge per tile, depending upon the layout. This will add cost to your project but can give a tile installation a finished look.

 

Mixing tiles among varying tile makers

 

On occasion, or budgeting reasons, I have used decorative tiles from one artist and solid color field tiles from another with some good results. In this instance, it is important to remember that tile sizes vary and tile thicknesses vary. For example, I have used decorative tiles that are 5/8” thick and a full 6” by 6” in size. The field tiles surrounding were only 3/8” thick and a smaller width dimension. So the grout lines were greater than they would have been if all of the tiles were by a single tile maker. The decorative tiles happened to be over-glazed on the ends so the difference in height made them look like an intentional accent. I have also used decorative tiles with a lessor thickness than the field tile. In this case, you would need to build out some thickness behind the decorative tile. This can be done by attaching a thin material to the substrate behind the tile such as luan or build up using the tile setting material (or both).

 

Make sure to order samples of tiles whenever possible to match them up and see if they will work well together. And then send the tile samples you like with your order for the tiles as a reference point for the tile maker to try and match.

 

Establish a budget

 

Save yourself some frustration by establishing a budget at the onset. Calculate a budget for installation separate from the purchase of the material. And remember, shipping of the tiles may be additional (tile is heavy). Consider using an experienced Designer regardless of how much of a creative person you are. An experienced Designer can possibly save you from some serious aesthetic and financial mistakes. They may also be able to assist in the selection of a proper tile installer, which we shall talk about later.

 

Within a tile layout design, there may be a variety of decorative tiles integrated with solid color field tiles. The decorative tiles will have more cost and you may use only a few of them in the design. But be aware, even a small amount of solid color field tile can add up having a total cost beyond your anticipated project budget. Costs for decorative tiles will vary from tile size to number of glaze colors and applications in the tile. Artist hand painted tiles will typically be at the higher end of cost. Handmade field tile costs can be from $35 per sq/ft to as much as $65 per sq/ft. Plan on $50 per sq.ft to be safe (just for the field tile portion).

 

Measure your space (palate), add it all up and don’t forget to include some overage. You may surprised at the material cost. Now is the time to determine if you can afford to do this project or if you will need to make some adjustments. It is ok to fall in love with some tile designs and wanting to use them in your project. Just make sure that you can afford them before a perfect layout design is completed and you have time and money invested.

 

There really is no standard for installation or Designer costs. It will vary from region to region, talent and experience.

 

Time frames

 

Everybody wants his or her project to happen quickly. Be prepared. This process is not a quick process. Information needs to be gathered. Questions need to be asked. Revisions may be required. Materials need to be ordered and produced. And installers need to be scheduled. It is not unusual for the production of handmade tiles to run from 6 weeks on up to 6 months. Remember….good things are worth waiting for!

 

The Layout Design Process

 

Measure the palate space and be as accurate as possible. Sketch out the space and all of its turns and crevices, jotting down the dimensions with arrows of the spaces. Don’t forget….older homes and buildings may not be level. For example, a width at the top of a fireplace surround may be different from a width at the base. Measure and take notes for everything. Too much information is not a bad thing here. If you are working with new construction, obtain dimensions from any architectural drawings and then do a field site trip and measure! Things change in the construction process. Not just sometimes, but often. Try to anticipate the worst while maintaining a positive attitude (because you are being smart).

 

So you think that you can just get some graph paper and design it yourself? Go back to the beginning of this article and read again. Remember, tile sizes vary and accuracy will play a major role in the quality of the outcome. You can certainly begin the process with graph paper. But consider using a Designer who works in CAD for at least the final layout.

 

I will not discuss design itself or aesthetic judgment. The focus of this article is on the process and helping you to avoid possible mistakes and loss of money. What you should be aware of however is that designs typically evolve. Things look different on paper. And they often look different in 3D. So be open to change and don’t get hung up on achieving exactly what you had in mind. It’s better to strive for an overall feeling or effect.

 

Using a Designer who uses CAD

 

Anyone who draws in CAD knows that it’s the best possible tool for generating accurate layouts. It also allows one to create a variety of layout variations quickly, easily, and save many versions. The best starting point is to draw out the palate based upon on all of the field dimensions. In CAD, various tiles can also be drawn out to exact dimensions based upon the tiles sizes of the tile maker(s). They can be color coded for ease in identification. Keeping in mind the desired affect, overall space, and end user wishes, the process now becomes a composition effort using the tile maker’s standard tiles sizes as much as possible, in order to avoid custom tile sizes and tile cutting. The tile composition will also incorporate exact grout line widths in between tiles. Altering grout line widths may be necessary in order to fill out a space accurately.

 

Most CAD drawings can be exported and imported into a working visualization tool such as Photoshop. I prefer Photoshop because of its power, flexibility and multi-layering capability. Quite often, you can locate tile makers’ tile designs and glaze colors online, copy, paste and size into the layout (see figure B). Ultimately, a best possible design layout and visualization tool can be generated with many variations. Whence a design layout is settled on, it’s a good idea to get a quote for all of the tiles in the design. Be sure to spell out any custom tiles in the design.



 

Design process options

 

With many of the tile layout designs that I work on, I prefer to create actual sized print outs of the finished/approved design. Over-sized print outs can be done at service centers such as Kinkos or Staples. They require a .PDF file. For larger projects the printouts may need to be created in sections. Over-sized printers and copiers typically have a roll width maximum of 48”. The actual sized print out can be brought to the site, cut and taped right onto the palate. Pretty cool huh? The actual sized print outs can also be used by the tile installer as reference in spacing, etc. The print out can be taped to a floor and the tiles assembled onto the print before installing.

 

With complex designs involving multiple tile sizes and custom tile sizes, it’s a good idea to create a “key” with the tile sizes color-coded (see figure C). This can be useful when ordering the tiles from the tile maker, as well as useful for the installer. Make sure to identify any required bull nose edges or over-glazed edged tiles.



 

The Importance Of An Experienced Tile Setter

 

I cannot stress enough just how important a tile setter can be for the success of your tile installation project. The tile setter should have experience in laying out and installing handmade tiles. Handmade tiles, unlike machine pressed tiles, can be somewhat irregular in size and the edges are not a precision straight-line edge. An experienced tile setter will know how to select tiles for placement, rotate and adjust tiles as they are set on a tile-per-tile basis. Simply put…there is a great deal of artistry and finessing on the part of the tile setter (installer) in order for the tile layout to work out properly. It is not at all unusual for a tile setter to have to make some level of adjustments in the installation process. An experienced tile setter will know how to prepare a substrate and what type of tile adhesive will be best the project based upon the substrate and the type of tile. Make sure to tell them, a lot has been invested up front in time, effort and cost and you would appreciate them carving out a proper amount of time to do the job.

 

Thank you and I certainly hope that this has been helpful for your future tile projects.

 

About the author:

Joseph Galli is a Designer as well as owner/operator of Oak Park Home & Hardware, Inc. and Tudor Furnishings. Joseph has BFA in Industrial Design from Rochester Institute of Technology.
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Posted by Joseph     0 Comments Saturday, March 7, 2015
Properly Changing Your Clock Time


Daylight Saving Time:

Two times per year, most all of the US observes Daylight Saving Time (as well as some 70 countries), requiring us to adjust clocks either forward or backward (Spring ahead / Fall back). There are still portions of Arizona, Hawaii, and American Samoa, Guam, Puerto Rico, and the Virgin Islands, that do not observe DST. These days, most of us have a wide variety of clocks that need changing from that microwave oven clock to a conventional wall clock. It is advisable to just change them all at one time so you do not have differing times displayed throughout the home and office. And don't forget about your car clock :-) As a reminder, it is always a good idea to also take this time to change out batteries in your home fire alarms and carbon dioxide alarms with fresh ones.

IMPORTANT! - Manually adjusting the time on an older conventional clock:

Some clock hands fit over the end of a movement stem and are secured with a threaded nut. Others (particularly on an inexpensive movement), are press fit onto the end of a movement stem and can bend or strip causing irregular time if adjusted by directly moving the hand. Many of the clocks we offer are hand-crafted but do have an inexpensive battery operated clock quartz movement. These movements do have a dial in the back for adjusting the time. Quite often, we have a customer call and say that the clock movement is no longer working and it really is because they have attempted to adjust the time by directly moving the clock hands. When the clock hands become stripped or disengaged from the stem, it will no longer work properly. Regardless of what type of clock movement you have, it is always best to change the time from the back of the movement and not from directly moving the clock hands. You will avoid possible breakage and the hassle of replacing a clock's entire movement.

When changing a digital clock, make sure to advance (or set back) the time to the proper AM/PM setting. A great way to make sure all of your clocks are in sync with time, carry your smart phone around with you while changing the times. This way, you will always have the correct time in hand.

To change the time on your smart phone, tablet, or computer,.....yes I am kidding.....no need to.....it changes automatically!

For interesting information about Daylight Saving Time

Check out all of the handcrafted clocks that we offer!

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Posted by Joseph     0 Comments Tuesday, March 3, 2015
Mission-Craftsman Style Lighting by Arroyo Craftsman
Experience The Difference!



We don't have a memorable commercial jingle. Nor do we have extensive TV ad campaigns or magazine ads. We are a small business and specialize in a few particular styles. Our product lines are carefully selected and we know them inside and out. This allows us to work closely with our customers by phone, email or in person to ensure a favorable outcome. This makes us different from the many "white background" websites out there offering some of the same items. Many of them sell just about everything possible and do not specialize. Quite often, their customer service personnel are not knowledgeable about the products they offer resulting in order errors. Imagine waiting 4-8 weeks for your made to order item and it arriving incorrect!  We do our best to make sure this does not happen. For example, there are many options available with our lighting from multiple sizes, finishes, glass or mica, UL ratings, and more. We know the details inherent in our products and can answer any questions that our customer(s) may have. If we do not know something, then "we find out"! Yet we are able remain very competitive with pricing.

We have been offering Mission-Craftsman Style Lighting from Arroyo Craftsman since our inception in 2001. The Arroyo Craftsman lighting collection has always been one of our biggest sellers, largely in part because of their many glass, mica and metal finish options. In a single series, you can create a cohesive look in any Craftsman-Bungalow-Arts & Crafts environment. For example, within the Arroyo Craftsman Mission series or Prairie series, you can find a chandelier, wall sconce, exterior light, pendant lantern, column mount fixture, table lamp, and floor lamp all in the same theme. Our many years of experience with the Arroyo Craftsman lighting lines allows us the ability to assist our customers above and beyond any other reseller of Mission-Craftsman Style Lighting. We frequently do customized lighting designs with Arroyo Craftsman.
 
Located in Southern California, Arroyo Craftsman handcrafts each piece individually from raw brass. Some finishes take many days to cure. Their products are structurally superior and considered commercial grade. Their lighting designs are genuine and true to the style and materials they work with.
 
Arroyo Craftsman can be found in scores of architectural landmarks.
The Gamble House. Frank Lloyd Wright homes. The Grove Park Inn.
 
Arroyo Craftsman’s naturally oxidized finishes such as their Verdigris Patina, Mission Brown, Bronze, and Raw Copper are applied by hand in multiple steps and take many days to cure. Each Arroyo Craftsman product is manufactured in Baldwin Park, California by American artisans, and dated.
 
Arroyo Craftsman maintains a rich tradition that can be found in many historical landmarks. Virtually any size and application can be accommodated and we can facilitate this. Contact us for a consultation and quote.

Arroyo Craftsman Lighting model numbers (sku numbers) typically include a number that indicates a width. The width is always the widest portion of the light fixture which is often the roof or top. The extension is the overall length of either a chandelier or pendant and is from the ceiling to very bottom of the lantern(s).


 
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Oak Park Home & Hardware specializes in lighting products in the spirit of Arts & Crafts, Mission, Prairie, Bungalow, English Tudor, Tudor Manor, and Spanish Revival styles.

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Oak Park Home & Hardware offer high quality lighting designs. We provide customized lighting solutions with manufacturers such as Arroyo Craftsman Lighting, Mica Lamp Company, 2nd Ave Lighting, and UltraLights Lighting.

We also offer quality lighting products with manufacturers such as Quoizel, James Mattson Coppercraft, and Lundberg Studios. Please check out our unique lighting designs in the style of Greene and Greene!

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